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A Trip to Stord Island

One of Norway's biggest islands, Stord has historical importance, interesting scenery, and is a key transport link between Bergen and Stavanger.

Many tourists pass through Stord without even realising it on the road from Stavanger to Bergen. That's because it's one of Norway's biggest islands, yet it rarely feels like one.

Stord Island is between Bergen and Stavanger. Photo: David Nikel.
Stord Island is between Bergen and Stavanger. Photo: David Nikel.

I recently visited the island on a business trip, so I took the opportunity to slow down and find out more about this often-overlooked part of western Norway.

Arriving on the island is a treat if you're travelling south from Bergen along the E39 highway, as you'll take a 40-minute ferry ride across Bjørnafjorden. It’s one of those journeys that quietly reminds you how fragmented Norway’s coastline really is.

Geography of Stord Island

The 241 km² island lies south of Bergen, between the mouth of the Hardangerfjord and the North Sea. It’s a location that has shaped everything from its weather to its economy.

Stord is dominated by the mountain Mehammarsåta, the island’s highest point at 749 metres. From the summit, on a clear day, you can see deep into the fjords and out towards the open sea. It’s one of the best viewpoints in the region for those willing to make the hike.

On board the Sandvikvag to Halhjem car ferry. Photo: David Nikel.
On board the Sandvikvag to Halhjem car ferry. Photo: David Nikel.

That geography has a practical impact too. The island’s main roads largely circle the coastline rather than cutting directly across the mountainous interior.

One of those roads is the E39, Norway’s main coastal highway linking Kristiansand to Trondheim via Stavanger and Bergen. Stord sits right on that corridor, making it far more important than its low profile might suggest.

The island is connected to the mainland in two ways. To the north, ferries run between Sandvikvåg and Halhjem. To the south, the Bømlafjord Tunnel and bridges form part of the Trekantsambandet fixed link, connecting Stord to neighbouring islands and the mainland road network.

Fitjar

While much of the population is concentrated in the south, the northern half of the island belongs to Fitjar municipality.

Fitjar on Stord Island. Photo: David Nikel.
Fitjar on Stord Island. Photo: David Nikel.

Fitjar is quieter, more rural, and scattered across a landscape of small farms, sheltered bays and low-lying islands. The coastline here is intricate, broken up by hundreds of islets that stretch out towards the North Sea.

There’s also history here, although it’s easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there. Fitjar is traditionally associated with the Battle of Fitjar, where King Håkon the Good was mortally wounded during the Viking Age.

Fitjar main street. Photo: David Nikel.
Fitjar main street. Photo: David Nikel.

It’s one of several events tied to Norway’s gradual unification, giving this peaceful landscape a surprisingly dramatic past.

Driving Around Stord Island

Upon arriving off the ferry, I chose not to follow the E39 down the eastern side. Instead, I headed west through Fitjar village and followed the quieter coastal roads. I’m glad I did.

Western road around Stord. Photo: David Nikel.
Western road around Stord. Photo: David Nikel.

Despite the rain, and it really was relentless, it was an enjoyable drive through farmland, forests and along the rugged coastline. Every so often the weather would lift just enough to reveal another small harbour, another cluster of houses, or another stretch of open sea.

These west coast roads are where Stord really comes into its own. There are no headline attractions here, just a steady rhythm of small marinas, boat houses and quiet stopping points that reward anyone willing to slow down.

A picturesque rest stop on the western edge of Stord Island in Norway. Photo: David Nikel.
A picturesque rest stop on the western edge of Stord Island. Photo: David Nikel.

That’s the thing about driving in Norway. Planning is only ever half the story. There are always places to stop. Always a viewpoint, a side road, or just a patch of coastline that catches your eye. You end up building your own itinerary as you go.

Leirvik

At the southern end of the island lies Leirvik, the largest town on Stord and its natural centre.

Leirvik coastline. Photo: David Nikel.
Leirvik coastline. Photo: David Nikel.

With around 13,000 residents, Leirvik feels more substantial than you might expect. There’s a proper town centre, a waterfront, shopping areas, cafés and restaurants, along with schools, hotels and cultural venues.

The harbour area is particularly pleasant, especially in good weather, with boats coming and going and views out across the water.

Shopping mall at Leirvik. Photo: David Nikel.
Shopping mall at Leirvik. Photo: David Nikel.

For those interested in understanding more about the region, Sunnhordland Museum offers a useful introduction. A collection of historic buildings and exhibits brings to life the coastal culture of this part of Norway, from fishing traditions to everyday life along the fjords.

An interesting linguistic detail: Leirvik is often cited as one of the largest urban areas in Norway where Nynorsk is the dominant written language.

Leirvik Church. Photo: David Nikel.
Leirvik Church. Photo: David Nikel.

Street signs and official information reflect this, offering a subtle but noticeable difference for visitors familiar with Bokmål.

Industry on Stord

Stord is not just a scenic stop. It’s an industrial powerhouse in western Norway.

Immediately south of Leirvik lies Eldøyane, a major industrial area home to companies such as Aker Solutions and Wärtsilä. These companies are deeply involved in energy, maritime technology and offshore engineering.

Stord Conference Centre. Photo: David Nikel.
Stord Conference Centre. Photo: David Nikel.

Nearby, Heiane serves as a commercial hub with retail parks and services, while Sagvåg, just to the north, has its own industrial heritage and a quieter residential feel.

This industrial presence explains a lot about Stord. It shapes the local economy, supports transport links, and even justifies the existence of something quite unexpected.

A Tiny Airport With a Big Purpose

There’s a small airport on Stord, something I hadn’t even realised before visiting.

is served by a limited number of flights to Oslo, operated by Danish Air Transport. It’s not a major gateway by any means, but it plays an important role for business travel linked to the island’s industries.

Stord Airport. Photo: David Nikel.
Stord Airport. Photo: David Nikel.

I took a short detour to see it for myself. It’s one of the smallest airports in Norway with scheduled services, and feels more like a regional airstrip than a conventional airport.

The airport is also remembered for a tragic chapter in its history. In 2006, a flight operated by Atlantic Airways overran the runway while landing in difficult conditions. Several people lost their lives, and the accident led to changes in safety procedures and infrastructure at the airport.

Today, the airport continues to operate safely, serving its niche but important role in the region. And yes, in keeping with the local language, it’s officially called Stord lufthamn.

Where to stay on Stord

Thanks to its industrial activity, Stord has more accommodation options than you might expect.

Stord Hotel entrance

I stayed at , one of the best-known places to stay in Leirvik. It’s clearly geared towards business travellers, but it works just as well for visitors. Facilities include a restaurant, bar, and even a small swimming pool, which is always welcome after a day on the road.

There are also smaller guesthouses and apartments around the island, particularly appealing if you want something quieter or more self-catered.

Why Visit Stord?

Stord isn’t a headline destination in the way that Bergen or the fjords are. And that’s precisely its appeal. It’s a place you experience rather than tick off.

Whether it’s a slow drive along the coast, a detour into a small harbour, a hike up Mehammarsåta, or simply an overnight stop that turns into something more, Stord offers a different perspective on western Norway. Less dramatic perhaps, but more grounded, more lived-in.

Next time you're travelling between Bergen and Stavanger, consider giving Stord more than just a passing glance.

About David Nikel

Originally from the UK, David now lives in Trondheim and was the original founder of º£½ÇÖ±²¥ back in 2011. He now works as a on all things Scandinavia.

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7 thoughts on “A Trip to Stord Island”

  1. Thanks for the interesting article on Stord . My great grandfather immigrated from Stord to Minnesota back in the 1860’s. We visited my wife’s relatives in Setesdal in 2002 and then drove E39 from Stavanger to Bergen. Wish I had more time on Stord.
    Takk
    Peter Hendrickson

    Reply
  2. My family (Lønning) comes from and still lives near Leirvik on Stord. Since, in Norway, the land passes from 1st son to 1st son, the present land owners are Michell Lønning, his wife and children. My grandfather, Michell’s uncle, the 5th of 13 children, immigrated to America in the early 1900’s. My father eventually settled in Minnesota and I presently live in Idaho. I feel a strong tie to Stord and have visited several times in my lifetime.

    Reply
    • My husband’s grandfather came from Norway, a minister in Oregon, then in North Dakota. We visited Stord several times, because that was where the wife and young daughter moved back to, after Reverend Ole HÃ¥heim died (in Zahl, North Dakota). The child was named Kari Johanna HÃ¥heim, became a teacher in Leirvik where she lived and died. We are also related to several Aadland families on Stord, Rev. Herman Inge Aadland of Fitjar, and Berge near Leirvik.
      Roger Haaheim has passed, but I still own a house in ID on the west slope of the Tetons. Hope to be visiting there sometime soon, north of Victor.

      Reply
  3. I am going to start my new job in Stord from 1st of August 2018. Above article was very useful for me. I have been in Norway for last 3 years but it will be 1st time to that part of the country. Let’s see how it goes.

    Reply
  4. New settlers to Stord and their families may like to know that there is an active international culture club whose aim is to help the foreigner meet others and to take part in activities on offer.
    For more details look at Facebook site: internasjonal kulturklubb Stord

    Reply
  5. Stord is an Island, Bomlo an area on Stord?, and Loning a city? My family records show they came from Bomlo and other records say they came from Loning. Are both correct?

    Reply

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